Sunday, February 18, 2007

Organic Cotton: What's the Difference?

Cotton is a soft fiber that grows around the seeds of the plant that shares the same name. It can be spun into a fine thread and processed with other fibers to create a variety of textiles. Crops are grown in tropical and subtropical regions of both hemispheres.

It has been cultivated by man for well over 7,000 years and has been a driving force in a number of cultures, from India to Mexico, and ultimately due to colonization, Europe. Where, during the Industrial Revolution, a number on inventions built up the textile industry in Great Britain. These inventions were the spinning jenney and frame. England became the center of the cotton trade universe as cotton developed more use throughout the world.

As America began to build itself up, cotton became a crucial export. The southern region of the country blossomed with the success of this agriculture and the crop became known as "King Cotton". I do not want to make light of the individuals whose hard work truly led to this success, but that is not the topic of this post. For more information on the American cotton industry and workers prior to emancipation, please visit here.

Today, it has become "the fabric of our lives" thanks to their marketing campaign. In reality, it is one of the most ubiquitous fabrics and can be found in everything from denim, towels, and dress shirts. In the last few years, with the realization that our resources are finite and that we are having a greater impact on our environment, the term "organic cotton" has become more germane and acceptable.

But isn't all cotton organic? The fabric is derived from plants, and the production of it is actually very efficient as only 10% of the raw material is lost in the processing. However, due to the proliferation of fertilizers and insecticides in modern agriculture and the use of toxic dyes in commercial clothing manufacture, the need for healthier alternatives has become more evident. Cotton also needs a great deal of sunlight and water to sustain during the long growing season. Countries have suffered greatly from solely relying on cotton for its economy due to the lack of enough water. The crop is also very susceptible to insect infestation and disease, which leads to a high amount of pesticide and chemicals to be used. In fact, 25% of worldwide pesticides used annually is for cotton agriculture.

Cotton raised organically have begun to gain marketshare in both land and shelf space as it takes less of a toll on the environment. Organic cotton is raised without the use of the harmful chemicals found in the fertilizers and pesticides. Instead, they rely on natural composts and soil additives, as well as pest controls. Natural predators, such as ladybugs, are relied upon to control the insects that harm the crops.

Currently, strict organic cotton does not have the color palette of standard cotton offerings. The chemicals used in the dyes detracts from the natural growing. It is analgous to building a house out of recycled wood and finishing it by using lead paint. Earthtones, such as reds, browns, greens, and yellows are currently being produced without chemicals. In fact, cotton is being grown on stem in certain pigments and as the clothing is washed it becomes richer and darker.

Initiatives to lead the cotton industry more towards sustainable agriculture have gained more awareness. The Sustainable Cotton Project (SCP) started in 1994 and its goal to advance the market for growers, manufacturers, and consumers to produce and use organic cotton. Their mission goes beyond the cultivation of cotton in a clean way. They promote the fair-trade of cotton goods and awareness for the issues that affect its agriculture.

In closing, the commercial cotton industry will maintain its practices as is until other feasible methods come along which are more cost effective. Organic cotton is building ground, especially as technologies improve and sustainable alternatives are created which cause consumers to convert. More and more corporations are realizing the business benefits of being an environmental steward. As exhibited by the fact that more consumers purchase clothing due to more than the quality of the product. I've mentioned many such companies before: REI, Ibex, Patagonia, and NAU (Investors for now, customers later?) Through the internet, organic products can be easily found, and the more demand generated, the more likely money will be come to the cause.

39 days, 39 runs...

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